21 MAY 2020 21
Photography: Irina Burakova / Alamy Stock Photo
OVER THE BAR
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that make life so
What is pea milk?
I know this is almost too simple to have
any hope of being right, but I’m guessing
it’s milk from peas.
Got it in one! You are on the ball today.
In that case, I can’t begin to imagine
how tiny the fingers doing the milking
And normal service is resumed. So, to
clarify any misunderstanding, the peas
aren’t milked in the way that cows are.
What’s more, the peas in question aren’t
the green, ‘sweet as the moment when the
pod went pop’ ones that you might imagine.
They are yellow split peas, which are milled
into a flour, before being blended with water
to form a ‘milk’.
Sounds a bit like that Northumbrian
delicacy pease pudding – or Geordie
houmous, as I believe it’s sometimes
Well, yes, that also uses yellow split peas, but
this is an altogether different, more liquid
concoction. You wouldn’t put pease pudding
in your tea, for instance.
But my Auntie Beryl from Newcastle
I suspect that to be an untruth of sorts.
Anyway, back in the real world, pea milk is
being lauded as one of the coming flavours
of 2020. This is partly down to its health
benefits. For one, it’s high in protein,
containing more than three times as much
as an almond milk alternative. What’s more,
it’s a good source of calcium, iron, omega 3
fatty acids and vitamin D. It joins plant-
based milk alternatives made with such
ingredients as oats, soya and nuts in a market
that was worth a whopping £259 million in
the UK last year.
Do you know who I feel sorry for? The
poor old dairy farmers. This sort of thing
can’t be good for business.
You have a point. They’ve been hit by the
surge in veganism over the past few years.
Lactose intolerance is also much more
prevalent than it once was, and milk is such
a useful thing that those folk affected by it
really do need a substitute. All the same, this
leaves our dairy farmers ever more in need of
You’re right! We need a campaign to
encourage people to use dairy milk.
Lactose tolerants of the world unite
and make blancmange!
The slogan might need a little bit more
finessing, don’t you think?
INTO THE RED
This bank holiday
Monday (25 May)
marks the start
of British Tomato
Fortnight, so visit
a wealth of great
suggestions on how
to make the most of
this wonderful fruit.
black olive and ricotta
puff pastry tarts; and
deliciously jammy confit
tomatoes with herbs.
With so much more to choose from
than just peas, sweetcorn and green
beans, the frozen vegetable aisle
can be a real time saver. Cauliflower
florets are a great addition to a
curry, or Middle-Eastern tabbouleh;
diced butternut squash is a handy
addition to a risotto, or chilli; while
frozen spinach pairs beautifully with
potato in an Indian saag aloo, or
with chickpeas in the Spanish dish
espinacas con garbanzos.
This week’s wines are made using
some less-well-known – but very
interesting – grape varieties
1 OUT ON ITS OWN
Petit Manseng is a grape that’s often part of the palette
in blended wines, but you rarely see it alone. In Waitrose
& Partners Petit Manseng, £9.99/75cl, the flavours are lightly
peachy with, for me, a hint of butterscotch, but at the same
time it’s elegant and crisp.
2 SUMMERY ROSÉ
As the colour suggests, there’s a lovely blend of
strawberries and summer fruits in Waitrose & Partners
Zweigelt, £8.99/75cl. As the sun starts to creep out, and we
begin to look to rosé, I think this will be a real crowd-pleaser.
3 PACKED WITH BLACKCURRANT
When I put my nose into a glass of Waitrose & Partners
País, £7.99/75cl, there’s a burst of blackcurrants, followed
by black pepper. What’s nice about this is it’s a really packed,
fruity wine, but not overpowering – there’s a lightness of style.
4 A TASTE OF SUNSHINE
You can smell the heat of the south of France in
Waitrose & Partners Marselan, £6.99/75cl – there’s hot
stones and herbaceous warmth, and a very attractive juiciness.
The slightly more robust tannins suggest it would be a very
good food wine, although it’s also great on its own.